Just over a month to Milan Unica, a few more weeks to Premiere Vision, the great international trade fairs of the fabric; it is time to summarize what seem to be the trending highlights regarding the 22/23 fabric collection.
In this small summary, I preferred to avoid using evocative titles to address the question of "what to put in the sample suitcase", in favor of a more pragmatic style; I tried to clearly highlight what the focus points may be, or the common and recurring denominators among the buyers I have met to date for the pre-collections.
I would first like to point out that these six trends must be combined with the current essential concepts of Eco-Sustainability, Inclusion, Mitigation. Tre "best practices" which, inspired by contemporary sociological processes, should represent the Polar Star of every design, drawing and marketing activity.
The 6 Trends:
1 – Sobriety: in the spirit of "attenuation" and "understatement" I would suggest attitudes alien to emphasis and rhetoric. In our sector this could manifest itself both in the reduced saturation of colors and in the size of drawing ratios where everything that is considered "over-size" and "over-decorated" should be reduced. While I am writing, my thoughts go precisely to the atmospheres of color and environment that Cucinelli has been proposing for several seasons.
2 – Coat : it has been talked about for sometime, but the wool coat has not yet finished its ascending parable. It should be thought of with less drawing than in the previous season, privileged "also", but not only, of the dreered hands characterized by" cover"and "cavallery" weave. A clear representation of this style can be found in the presentation of coats by Lemaire, the iconic brand of the Parisian Marais.
3 – Sweater look: a particularly topical taste that has already presented on some catwalks of last season; Alessandro Sartori interpreted it in an authoritative and masterly way in the Milan fashion show by Ermenegildo Zegna. The sweater taste is a sociological phenomenon that will also reverberate in the collections of orthogonal fabrics. The lockdown forced us to spend more hours at our home and unwittingly we got used to wearing more comfortable and less structured garments. To obtain this taste you could think of “maglina” weave , double canvas and leno weave, combined with “mollettone” and “vaporizzo” finishes.
4 –Density: another theme that seems to me worthy of whole for next season, linked to the density of tissues. In my "capsules" I went to fish the compasses of old gabardine and tricotine seventies and I proposed them again maintaining a very high comb compactness. Unlike the fabrics of the time, I tried to stabilize its height without crushing more than necessary. Visual trace of what I mean can be found in the EgonLab collection, a Parisian brand that knows how to mix urban punk and tailoring, offering refined solutions with a contemporary, accessible, rebellious appearance.
5 – Fondi Mossi: the style of fabrics that vaguely refer to the Hipster world seems to me to be setting. I would avoid insisting on jackets and dresses characterized by an important design, I would suggest rather to try simple mono or biochromatic designs and, characterized by choppy funds that can be obtained from mouliné yarns from two plies of different title, one of which is slightly made in fantasy.
6 –Contrast: many companies have invested in digital platforms for the presentation of collectives; Moreover, the trend towards buying clothing online seems to be increasing sharply. On the basis of these two considerations, and in the presence of a reduction in the size of the drawings, it would seem to me common sense to increase the contrast of intensity between the elements of the weave, so as to make them less "fused" in favor of greater readability.
Many of the elements that characterize points 5 and 6 can be found in the latest collections of the brand based in Luisiana, Negris LeBrum, whose creative director, Travis Hamilton, was inspired by a troubled love story that began in the 1940s between a young Creole woman French and a man of the American upper class.
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