Often, my students in the 'Fundamentals of Fabric Design' course wonder who the end customers are of the dress fabrics we analyze. In class we try to reveal the secrets of the textures, decorative effects and impeccable softness of the fabrics produced by the most important producers in the Biella area.
The fabrics of the excellent exhibitors present at Idea Biella are carefully examined to understand the sophisticated design and production procedures.
But who are the men who will have the privilege of wearing these exceptional fabrics? It's hard to say for sure, but one possible answer could be suggested by 'Suits', the legal drama that found a second life after being made available on Netflix in June 2023.
The title of the series is full of meanings: it refers to the clothes worn by the characters, the law-suits they handle, but it also alludes to the nickname given to people who work in the business world, private bankers and anyone else with the habit of wearing a suit during one's daily work."
‘Suits’ is a legal drama set in a fictional law firm in New York. It tells the story of Mike Ross, a brilliant young man with a photographic memory, who works as a legal associate for Harvey Specter, even though he never graduated from Harvard. The two win lawsuits and solve cases, hiding Mike's secret, and dress in a very elegant formal business style.
"People respond to how we're dressed, so, like it or not this, is what you have to do" is the welcoming phrase that the old sea dog addresses to the promising young man on his first day of work. For the couple of 'lawyers', choosing their outfit is a bit like writing to communicate a message to readers, paying attention to language, syntax, grammar and choice of words. Every element of their outfit is like a word in a sentence: from the fabric of the dress to the style of the pockets. The wardrobe designers of Harvey Specter and Mike Ross clearly understand and interpret the meaning of this 'language'.
In the series, Mike Ross, who represents the slightly clean-shaven but rapidly rising young partner under the guidance of the firm's brightest star, often wears thinner, more sober and traditional tailored suits (slim lapels, no vest, tie thin with a small four-handed knot). Harvey, on the other hand, actually dresses like a boss. He is the highest-ranking executive in his company and his suits perfectly reflect his status in the company. Everything about Harvey's look evokes authority, from the three-piece suit to the spread collar to the Windsor knot. This stark contrast shows how effectively an outfit can communicate a message of unchallenged power.
In the early seasons, Specter's suits were made primarily from dark, highly twisted worsted fabrics. More recently, silk and wool blends can be seen which add brilliance and luster to the fabric, making them more unusual than ordinary plain wool cloth suits. Traditionally, silk is used in evening settings for its shine and formal character, but in an intimate mix it can be splendid in an anthracite and lead grisaille. It is interesting to note that the costume designer, Jolie Andreatta, avoids too strong pinstripes and opts for very sober stripes, microstructures or Prince of Wales designs. She probably wanted to differentiate the look of 'Suits' from the Power Look of Michael Douglas, alias Gordon Gecco, the Wall Street banker, dressed at the time by Nino Cerruti.
“It's all about texture and color combinations,” Andreatta says of the men's aesthetic. Harvey's confidence is expressed through 'beautiful classic pieces', while Mike embraces a 'fun and younger' look. To complement their Tom Ford (Harvey) and Burberry (Mike) style outfits, both characters wear tailored accessories to showcase their individual identities.
While there's a lot of talk about men's fashion on the show, Andreatta gives equal attention to female characters Rachel Zane, Jessica Pearson, and Donna Paulsen. “It is the women who really reveal the richness of the show.” The style of women's clothing is very elegant and sophisticated.
In particular, the character of Donna Paulsen, played by Sarah Rafferty, is known for her versatile and chic wardrobe. Donna Paulsen is a character that ranges from complete dresses, to suits, from blouses to shirts and from skirts (always knee-length or midi) to bold trousers. It is not uncommon for a close-up of Rafferty to be taken from head to toe, highlighting her shoes, often pumps with stiletto or Italian heels.
Her combinations in the second season of 'Suits' are a true encyclopedia of high-end style. The 'Elizabeth and James' footwear is paired with Gucci, Boss, Armani, Kors and Roland Mouret clothes. In other episodes the brands are Dior, Victoria Beckham, Prada, Nina Ricci and Dolce and Gabbana; a gallery of inspiration for creatives. This adds an extra layer of depth to the richness of the show, showing how every detail, from plot to fashion, is carefully curated.
'Suits' is not only a legal drama, but also a lesson in style. Each character, through their clothing, communicates their personality and role within the series. A perfect example of how fashion can be a powerful communication tool.
Rossano Bisio
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