It excites me and gives me a fair optimism that the son of a dear friend has expressed a desire to buy a tailored suit. It seems like a narrative gimmick and yet it happened.
Dear Marc, for a tailored dress, first of all the fabric.
Choosing to buy a garment should start with fabric; it will be what you feel on the skin and what will allow you to easily deal with situations of altered ambient temperature.
In choosing a cloth there are four fundamental aspects to consider:
weight of the fabric
composition and nature of the fibres
tactile sensation, generally defined among insiders as "hand"
visual appearance
Remember, the weight of the fabric expressed in grams per linear meter is fundamental. Attention, when we talk about fabrics for clothes the weight is not expressed per square meter but at the linear meter. When you enter a classy tailoring, you may be amazed and fascinated to admire dozens of perfectly rolled fabrics and stacked in a very orderly way. This is possible because each fabric is marketed exactly with a width, "height" for insiders of 150cm.
The linear meter weight refers precisely to the weight of a fabric one meter long and wide "high" 150cm and, I assure you, tests our design ability because, dear Marc, fabric is a living material and does not always behave as we expect.
Obviously there is no optimal weight for each of us, the choice is very influenced by personal characteristics, lifestyles, habits and customs, but indicatively we could identify the comfortable weight for a summer fabric in a range between 220 and 280 grams per linear meter, while to manufacture a winter dress the choice would have to fall between 280 and 360 grams per linear meter. Above and below these weights we are in areas that we could define for niches of amateurs.
I would like to stress that this statement of weight is largely insufficient to provide clarity on the fabric we are examining. Two fabrics of the same weight can be extremely different due to a number of technical factors that contribute to finding a balance that defines the quality of the fabric. These elements, which I will try to tell you about, are:
Characteristics of fibers
Spinning and twisting technology adopted
Count Number of yarn
Il Super Number
Fabric weave
The coefficient "K"
Finishing
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