A fundamental technical rule to orient yourself to the purchase of an extrafine fabric.
- biroross
- Jun 24, 2021
- 4 min read
The world of wool is a super specialized sector and it is important to orient yourself among a quantity of technical terms. In my previous post "Why are Merinos wools soft to the "Hand" I tried to highlight how, the finest the fiber, the greater the feeling of pleasantness to thetouch.
However, in order to better understand how to orient ourselves between the various labelsand words on the fabrics, we must make a leap into the past.
At the end of the 18th century, British wool traders used to describe how fine their goods were, using largely subjective jargon based on terms such as: low, medium, fine, newly created super, and so on.
As weavers and consumers needed more objective terminology with which to assess the rails, in the city of Bradford, England, a process was designed which became known as the English system of counting combed yarns or more generally, the Bradford system.
This system required some experts to estimate how many 560-yard single-head yarn matasses could be made by a good spinner using a pound of "top." (clean combed wool with the fibers all parallelized by combing).
The finener the wool fiber, the more matasses could be spun. From a pound of "80", for example, it was estimated that it could obtain eighty such matasses.
This method was very successful only a long time later, in 1968, a standardized and objective system for the evaluation of wools was introduced which assigns an "S" value to the finest wools, no longer by estimation but by measurement obtained on special microscopes.
In essence, this method tells us that, the larger the number "S" is, the more the average of the fibers that make up the fabric are fine; this is the comparison table.
The world of wool is a super specialized sector and it is important to orient yourself among a quantity of technical terms. In my previous post "Why are Merinos wools soft to the "Hand" I tried to highlight how, the finest the fiber, the greater the feeling of pleasantness to thetouch.
However, in order to better understand how to orient ourselves between the various labelsand words on the fabrics, we must make a leap into the past.
At the end of the 18th century, British wool traders used to describe how fine their goods were, using largely subjective jargon based on terms such as: low, medium, fine, newly created super, and so on.
As weavers and consumers needed more objective terminology with which to assess the rails, in the city of Bradford, England, a process was designed which became known as the English system of counting combed yarns or more generally, the Bradford system.
This system required some experts to estimate how many 560-yard single-head yarn matasses could be made by a good spinner using a pound of "top." (clean combed wool with the fibers all parallelized by combing).
The finener the wool fiber, the more matasses could be spun. From a pound of "80", for example, it was estimated that it could obtain eighty such matasses.
This method was very successful only a long time later, in 1968, a standardized and objective system for the evaluation of wools was introduced which assigns an "S" value to the finest wools, no longer by estimation but by measurement obtained on special microscopes.
In essence, this method tells us that, the larger the number "S" is, the more the average of the fibers that make up the fabric are fine; this is the comparison table.

It is easy to think that you should look for the best quality wools to get the best dress possible, but in textiles, as we will see, every choice must be weighted very carefully.
Super Number grades of up to 120 S are of excellent quality but still robust enough to remain durable. If you wear a dress every day, those made of wool of this quality will stand the test of time. The high grades between 120 and 140 are very good, they are soft and give a really refined look, but they require a little more care and attention than the lower grades.
Wear your Super 130 S to a dinner with a customer, party or appointment, but better not to risk during daily activities. The very high grades above 140 S are extremely fine, they are refined jewelry but much more delicate and sensitive.
After a short time you may experience signs of wear and pilling on pressure and rubbing points such as knees, elbows and where you rest your car's seat belt.
Such a luxurious dress will need a good deal of loving care, so save it for when you want to wear something really special.
There are many other possible insights on the subject, if you are interested in the subject write me a comment so that you can deepen the topic that interests you.
It is easy to think that you should look for the best quality wools to get the best dress possible, but in textiles, as we will see, every choice must be weighted very carefully.
Super Number grades of up to 120 S are of excellent quality but still robust enough to remain durable. If you wear a dress every day, those made of wool of this quality will stand the test of time. The high grades between 120 and 140 are very good, they are soft and give a really refined look, but they require a little more care and attention than the lower grades.
Wear your Super 130 S to a dinner with a customer, party or appointment, but better not to risk during daily activities. The very high grades above 140 S are extremely fine, they are refined jewelry but much more delicate and sensitive.
After a short time you may experience signs of wear and pilling on pressure and rubbing points such as knees, elbows and where you rest your car's seat belt.
Such a luxurious dress will need a good deal of loving care, so save it for when you want to wear something really special.
There are many other possible insights on the subject, if you are interested in the subject write me a comment so that you can deepen the topic that interests you.
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