The chase of the collections obliges us designers to anticipate more and more the drafting of the concepts and mood boards of the coming season. Not yet finished the Fall / Winter 22/23, the Milan Fashion Week can help us in sketching the sketch of the next Summer 23 with regard to the first yarns, colors and prototypes to be put to work.
The looks of the fashion shows were substantial, essential, rich in contaminations between tailoring and new technologies, generally deeply accurate even in the most avant-garde events, as if post-pandemic fashion were ready to return to a simplified elegance, aimed towards comfort and quality of materials.
Drawings
Drawings. Practically none have been seen, with the exception of a few compassed and ultra-chic blazer unlined in white prince of Wales and marine blue without decorations. This could portend that, after the indigestion of extra size patterns that has been seen in recent seasons, we are moving towards a much more essential and minimalist style. Such a phenomenon also occurred on the catwalks of 2009 following the subprime crisis.
Colors
Colors. If you have not seen drawings, rather you have seen colors. Pastels tones and sorbet in every range of shades were present on the catwalks of Fendi and Ermenegildo Zegna, who played to knead their colors on a very comfortable modeling made of slightly oversized jackets, kimòni and drawstring trousers with a wide leg. In the more formal presentations the leading tones that struck me most were the taupe,the washed red,and some points of very intense ochre played complementaryly to the majolica bleu (as in the tones of some constructions in the Les Majorelles Gardens by Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakesh).
Fabrics
Fabrics. It seemed to me to capture two clear and opposing trends: the first made of rather dry, nervous and snappy fabrics probably obtained through high twist yarns, barberries and crepes twisted in various compositions and suitable for making slender exquisitely minimalist jackets in the purest Prada style. A second trend, certainly predominant, looked towards the "drooping", the "loose" and the "open hands", all this obtained on mixed in which the protagonist fibers were silk, hemp, flax and viscose.
Finishing
Finishing. What has been written so far seems to allude to a certain monotony of content, in reality the catwalks have been enliveted by a series of fabrics that had as their main characteristic a remarkable and intrinsic brightness. The techniques with which to obtain the necessary "light" were many: mohair mixed with polyamide, satin silks, plating, special finishing particularly polishing and calelandized but, each for its own direction, even conceptually very distant brands such as Dolce&Gabbana and Brioni gave a place of respect to the fabrics that expressed the characteristic of brightness. Also interesting are the canvas coatings presented by Etro and made on garments with soft lines that gave the garment a vaguely metallic appearance and a fall from unusual grace.
Admixtures
Admixtures. There is a line of experiences and food for thought that starts from the most recent protagonists of the Milanese season. It seems that there is a trend that does not want to be reduced to a concept of trend but that wants to freely explore the spaces of creativity. A sort of storytelling that is renewed season after season and that sees interpreters of this movement brands such as Massimo Alba, Sunnei and Tokyo James. It is difficult to find a common denominator among these actors, who contribute to keeping the Milanese appointment effervescent. A good point of synthesis could be represented by their ability to combine heterogeneous cultural elements in a very convincing proposal. Tokyo James, emerging Nigerian designer, brought to the Milanese event a proposal in which on interesting formal suits, appeared the mixture of sartorial allusions "Savile Row" and ethnic textures obtained with skilled works of perforated. Sunnei, protagonist of an interesting multimedia communication, has ironically proposed a skilful mix of regimental motifs, boot stripes and jacquard micro-effects in color compositions never taken for granted. Last but not least, Massimo Alba presented a series of very current models that wink at oversized comfort, made of very natural and somewhat smudged raw cottons.
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